List of grade milestones in rock climbing

List of grade milestones in rock climbing

Wolfgang Güllich set new "hardest-ever routes" multiple times

In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch or bouldering climbing-route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting — the ascent must thus be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional-climbing, free-solo-climbing, onsighted & flashed-ascents, are also listed.

A climbing route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated it to establish a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+ (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air, which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+ (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Thus, the 2nd to 4th ranked candidates are also recorded.

As of March 2026, the technically hardest-ever redpoint of a single-pitch rock-climbing route is at the grade of 9c (5.15d) for men and the grade of 9b+ (5.15c) for women. The technically hardest onsight is at the grade of 9a (5.14d) for men and 8c+ (5.14c) for women. The technically hardest boulder solved is at the boulder grade of V18 (9A+) for men and V16 (8C+) for women. The technically hardest redpoint of a multi-pitch (or big wall) route is at the grade of 9a+ (5.15a). The technically hardest free solo of a single-pitch route is at the grade of 8c (5.14b), and the technically hardest free solo of a multi-pitch (or big wall) route is at 7c+ (5.13a).

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men

9c (5.15d):

Adam Ondra on Silence

9b+ (5.15c):

9b (5.15b):

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

Alex Megos on Action Directe

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+ (5.14a)

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c)

Pre-sport era

The notable first ascents that set a new highest-grade prior to The Face were traditional climbing routes:

8a (5.13b)

7c+ (5.13a)

7c (5.12d)

7b+ (5.12c)

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a)

Thimble, the 1960s

7a (5.11d)

6c+ (5.11b/c)

6c (5.11a/b):

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

6b (5.10c):

6a+ (5.10b):

Redpointed by women

9b+ (5.15c)

9b (5.15b):

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c+/8a (5.13a/b) :

Pre-sport era

The notable first female ascents that set a new highest-grade pre Fleur de Rocaille were traditional climbing routes:

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

7b (5.12b):

7a (5.11d):

Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

Free-solo by men

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d)

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a)

7a (5.11d):

6c+ (5.11b/c):

6c (5.11a/b):

Boulder problems

Solved by men

Christian Core on Gioia

Dreamtime in Switzerland

Climber on Midnight Lightning

Solved by women

8C/8C+ (V15/16) :

Multi-pitch routes

List of grade milestones in rock climbing

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

Climbers on the roof of Pan Aroma (and Bellavista) 8c (5.14b) on the Cima Ovest in the Dolomites.

8b+ (5.14a):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

7c+ (5.13a):

7b+ (5.12c):

7a+ (5.12a):

7a (5.11d):

6c+ (5.11b/c):

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

6a+ (5.10b):

6a (5.10a):

Free-soloed

7c+ (5.13a):

Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

7b+ (5.12c):

The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route, Marmolada

7b (5.12b):

7a+ (5.12a):

7a (5.11d):

6c+ (5.11b/c):

6a (5.10a):